Wednesday 20 February 2013

Sao Paulo

Friday 15th - Monday 18th

I arrived in Sao Paulo at about 7am on a bus that consisted of myself and two other sleepers. I slept the whole 500km. I got the metro from the bus station (again R$3 and again, wider and cooler than tfl). After a bit of confusion I found the place I was staying, dropped my bags and had a very British breakfast for Sao Paulo.
I stayed the whole time in Sao Paulo with one of my mum's friends, Caroline, whose lived in SP longer than I've lived my life and has a 25 year old son, Ross. Ah yes -my breakfast - every day I had PG tips tea, kellog's corn flakes and 2 slices of toast with marmite on it - tear drop for nostalgia. 

Anway, you're not interested in that (I don't even know if you're interested at all really). I got the metro in to town with Ross as I was heading to the tourist centre (for a map) on Paulista, the heart of SP's business - the Wall Street of South America. Ross works in TV so doesn't have to wear a suit like his neighbours.
After getting a map I enjoyed a walk around Paulista and when I needed the toilet I found a Starbucks and wanted to leave my mark - got some evil glares as I strolled past to the toilets only for the toilets to be shut and then to walk straight in to a glass door on my way out! (karma?) 
There's a building in Sao Paulo that is free to visit and gives an incredible view of the city and answered my question of 'how big is Sao Paulo?' with 'oh my God'. It was a 2 hours in-and-out wait and I realised just how tired I was when I managed to fall asleep standing up in the queue and jolted forward! The view was increible, it probably would've been better if a storm didn't start 3 mins before we went up and didn't have to look through glass but oh well. The city is enourmous, in area and in height. I think it's taller than New York, it looks like a city that was built for the Gods and on my last day I realised that it was also filled with some amazing architecture, in design rather than size.

I took my standing nap as a hint I was pooped, and so got the metro back (packed!) and crashed out on my bed for a few hours! When I awoke we were joined by Ross' friend Jacob, a Brazilian he'd known for ten years who we'd be hanging out with tonight. We drove to a region of SP that was filled with bars and where I learnt from them Sao Paul'en(?) phrases, they learnt hotspice. I've made it my goal here to teach everyone the word hotspice, it was loved in Rio and I think Ross and Jacobe liked it too! 
We ended up at a Rock and Roll bar called Morrison, name after the late great Jim Morrison (the lead singer of The Doors for all you sinners that didn't know!!) and I had a great night watching a Stones and Doors tribute band play. Who knew Jagger could speak fluent Portugese?
We got in about 4 as Jacob drove us home and continued driving on home for another hour, long night without a drop of alcohol! I was beginning to think I'd like Sao Paulo.

The next day I thought I'd be a bit more cultural and seeing that the MASP was right on my doorstep (oh you don't know? It's only the largest art gallery in the southern hemisphere darling) which was really good actually, there were some very prestigious works there (a lot of Raphael) and I was unfortunate to miss the Vermeer exhibition by just a few days. After lunch, Ross drove me to the Football museum which is at the main stadium in SP, and that was actually so good (despite being stopped in the carpark by the 'cardboard offials' who charged R$16 to park, I think Ross would've found a smashed window if he didn't pay) and I'm glad we did it, you can really see why the Brazilians are so honoured to support their team. We were met at the stadiums bar by Jacob and Larissa (his girlfrend) and after a drink we headed to the Hyde Park of SP. Again I had a really good time, there's some really cool things there (sorry i've forgotten the name of it) such as the performance theatre with the reverse stage that can perform outside as well as in! For those that don't know, SP has a reputation for it's food. It's deemed to be so good that even the Italians are jealous of SP's Italian food! This is due to the large amount of Italian and Japanese immigrants that have come over time and it just so happened some of them were michelin star chefs. Therefore that night I was treated to a pizza dinner with Ross, Jacob and Larissa (I really was being spoilt) and the food was great, although I think that maybe they were upset when I said that my pizza from Naples topped it...

On Sunday it was the big derby: Corinthians x Palmares. It was a great game, it ended 2-2 and unfortunately Corinthians didn't clinch it in the final minute with a bicycle kick from Romarinho (watch this space). After a few games of FIFA Ross took me to a cocktail bar - voted to do the best Capirinhas (Brazil's traditional cocktail) in SP, and I enjoyed one with pepper and the other I preferred with red fruits - there's something about spicy cocktails that's maybe too much for me. I guess I'm not a hotspice. Ross then showed me around the area where youth drunkards go on weekends to party on the streets (think 'flats' but in the centre of a city and with hundreds more people) but as it was Sunday homework was due and the street only offered hookers. The night ended with laughing at an air guitarist on the metro and a few games of FIFA - I think Ross and I had found something we truly bonded over.

Monday was my final full day in the city and I wanted to do the walk I planned to do on Friday if it wasn't for that 2hr wait. The walk was great, I saw so much of the city and even though almost everything was shut, I still got the vibes from the city that explained why they had to build a new city in order to make the capital of Brazil. Just like in Australia, the two main cities were so impressive and grand (yet so different) that a city was built merely to have a capital, Brasillia. Oh and you gotta see the German designed Cathedral! It's surreal! The walk lasted all day and it ended with a storm! It rained so hard and I saw the woman next to me get hit by a bin (LOL!) as the winds were so strong. I was drenched and when I got back I found a tree had landed on Ross' car!! It was nothing though, when we managed to get it off we found there wasn't even a scratch.
That night I was treated to a traditional 'set price' Brazillian dinner with Caroline and Ross, where I had some of the best meat i've had in months and was filled to the brim - it was the right send off to yet another incredible city. Of course the night ended with a last few games of FIFA with Ross!
I got the 10am bus the next day as I waved goodbye to Sao Paulo.

So what were my impressions? I don't understand why more people don't come here. Sao Paulo is an attractive dynamic, fast moving city that offers a night life that could rival Rio (obviously it didn't cos I was there for Carnaval but that's not fair).
The weather? Hot, not as unbearable as Rio. Unfortunately there'd been storms since Christmas, so every evening consisted of some showers. 
But yes, two great cities for the start of my 150 days, and I just hope that the rest of the continent can live up to them!

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