Curitiba

Tuesday 19th - Friday 22nd Feb

So Sao Paulo was good. I'd seen the biggest city in Latin America and ended it with some pretty spectacular Brazilian cuisine.
But now I was destined to move on, and I didn't fancy a 13 hour bus straight to Florianopolis, so as I have so long I thought - 'Curitiba?'

Not many people visit Curitiba, well tourists don't but old women do who take their dogs on 7 hour bus journeys (who does that?!) and I for one would urge anyone to go. I arrived at about 6pm and got a cab immidiately to the hostel. I was staying at the cheapest hostel in Curitiba according to hostelworld (by the way, THE greatest and most handy website I've ever used): Backpakers Hostel Curitiba. It's a 10 minute walk from the historical centre and didn't take me long to love it. I was staying in a 6-bed dorm to myself, with a balcony and I could get full wifi lying in my bed - hostels like that don't come around often! Oh and they had a pet cat that was absolutely badass.

I didn't do much that night. I made dinner and ventured to a rock n roll bar called Bop n Roll that offered a range of quality beers, played extreme sports on the tv and above all played Creedance Clearwater Revival all night! I targeted to see as much as possible the next day. I had read in my book that Curitiba offered the 'best' city tour in south america, so I was bloody well gonna do that wasn't I? And there wasnt anything gonna stop me (as you'll soon learn...)

I started the tour at 11 (after the worst breakfast I've had in a long time) and thought it was pretty sublime very quickly. Curitiba is a very clean city (for South American standards it's increible). It was like being in California. However it didn't quite live up to it's 'most environmentally friendly city in Latin America' title, as - with everywhere else in South America - everyone used plastic bags! The plastic bag business is raking it over here!
So yes, the tour. It starts at a church that looks like a cake (seriously) and it takes you through the colourful streets until it eventually goes out of the city on it's 44km journey. For that distance, I wasn't complaining about the £9 fee. I got off at the Botanical gardens (as with everywhere, free) and had a nice little walk around. It's really nice there and you get some great views of the city. I hung around for a while, appreciating their intercontinental plant range as well as walking around the large pond. From there, I got back on a different bus (the system works that you pay for 5 journeys, so you can see everywhere and visit 5 of them - which is more than enough) and got back off at the zoo/Islamic area (free). I didn't know if I'd made a mistake there, but a lot of the arcitecture was really interesting and I had some fun laughing at the crazy parrots and turtles. I wondered why I actually got off at that stop, maybe I felt that the whole Arabic feel kinda reminded me of London and I'd got a little fed up of the whole GOD IS AMAZING LOOK AT THIS CHURCH message that is stamped across all of Brazil. The next stop is why you should come to Curitiba: Tangua Park. I didn't spend a penny there and it was as beautiful as any park I've ever visited. They had a waterfall there and a cute wooden cafe that sat at the mouth of it. I walked around the park for a while and realised that maybe I was getting a little lonely as I was actually talking to myself and taking pictures just pulling funny faces... 
Oh and for the runners, if you're in Southern Brazil I'd say Curitiba is your best bet for some quality runs, the parks are grand and the weather was really good when I was there. 
As I had only 5 journeys on my ticket I made that my final stop as I got back on the bus and took snaps of the remaining places. It actually pissed it down for the remainder of the tour (then it stopped totally) but I refused to get down from the from and got drenched in the process! I decided that tomorrow I'd use my final journey on a visit to the oi! tower to see the whole city, which i did the next day.
I'd been put in contact with someone that lived in Curitiba from Ross (who I stayed with in SP) and she'd told me about an international students party that was pretty close to my hostel, so I attended that and it was probably the first event of my travels that you could say 'changed' my mentality. I went there alone and met so many people, mainly a French history of art student (I know!) and a gay brazilian banker. I was chatting away with them for hours until the end where I met the best person I've met all my trip - Gasper.
Gasper was born in Brazil, moved to Tasmania and then to Scotland, back to Brazil, back to Scotland and now is back in Curitiba so arguably has the weirdest accent ever. But he invited me out the next night and made me feel very welcome - Curitiba had the student life that I hadn't seen anywhere else (and no Ozzies or Brits!).

The next day I didn't achieve as much as I had done the day before, as I got lost and ended up walking about 6km to the open opera house and got the bus to the oi! tower. Oi! is the big telecom company here and it's how Brazilians say hi. I have to remember to not say that when I'm back home!
Although the view was good, it was R$3.50 and the view in SP was free, so I was a little pissed off but hey. I walked back to the hostel and it was early evening so I went on a run to the Oscar Neyamaar (appreciating art and history in your Essex running vest and shortest shorts as you do) and then continued my run in to the city - until I got lost, exhausted and kinda dehydrated!
I returned, hung out with the cat for a bit and had schedualed to go to Gasper's at half ten, and I decided that tonight would be my last night... And that I'd get a bus at 5am!! So I got everything ready and headed to Gasper's.
The night was really good, we were all playing drinking games and in all there were probably 15 languages around the table! All were either students or doing some kind of volunteering over in Curitiba, so there was a nice vibe from everyone. Gasper says the gaybars are the best in Curitiba so after out second visit we were in the gaybar and partied it up with Curitiba's proudest men and women. I was enjoying it so much that I looked at my watch to see it was 4am so I rushed off, taxi to hostel, bags, taxi to bus station - 4.40am. Booked the bus and ate my apple as I was still drunk.
It's a 6 hour journey with some nice views that I didn't totally get to appreciate due to my 'mad one'.

Impression of Curitiba - go there! I think it's a wonderful place and if you're backpaking then don't skip it. Even if you're there for just one night I think you'd have a soft spot for the place :)

Sao Paulo

Friday 15th - Monday 18th

I arrived in Sao Paulo at about 7am on a bus that consisted of myself and two other sleepers. I slept the whole 500km. I got the metro from the bus station (again R$3 and again, wider and cooler than tfl). After a bit of confusion I found the place I was staying, dropped my bags and had a very British breakfast for Sao Paulo.
I stayed the whole time in Sao Paulo with one of my mum's friends, Caroline, whose lived in SP longer than I've lived my life and has a 25 year old son, Ross. Ah yes -my breakfast - every day I had PG tips tea, kellog's corn flakes and 2 slices of toast with marmite on it - tear drop for nostalgia. 

Anway, you're not interested in that (I don't even know if you're interested at all really). I got the metro in to town with Ross as I was heading to the tourist centre (for a map) on Paulista, the heart of SP's business - the Wall Street of South America. Ross works in TV so doesn't have to wear a suit like his neighbours.
After getting a map I enjoyed a walk around Paulista and when I needed the toilet I found a Starbucks and wanted to leave my mark - got some evil glares as I strolled past to the toilets only for the toilets to be shut and then to walk straight in to a glass door on my way out! (karma?) 
There's a building in Sao Paulo that is free to visit and gives an incredible view of the city and answered my question of 'how big is Sao Paulo?' with 'oh my God'. It was a 2 hours in-and-out wait and I realised just how tired I was when I managed to fall asleep standing up in the queue and jolted forward! The view was increible, it probably would've been better if a storm didn't start 3 mins before we went up and didn't have to look through glass but oh well. The city is enourmous, in area and in height. I think it's taller than New York, it looks like a city that was built for the Gods and on my last day I realised that it was also filled with some amazing architecture, in design rather than size.

I took my standing nap as a hint I was pooped, and so got the metro back (packed!) and crashed out on my bed for a few hours! When I awoke we were joined by Ross' friend Jacob, a Brazilian he'd known for ten years who we'd be hanging out with tonight. We drove to a region of SP that was filled with bars and where I learnt from them Sao Paul'en(?) phrases, they learnt hotspice. I've made it my goal here to teach everyone the word hotspice, it was loved in Rio and I think Ross and Jacobe liked it too! 
We ended up at a Rock and Roll bar called Morrison, name after the late great Jim Morrison (the lead singer of The Doors for all you sinners that didn't know!!) and I had a great night watching a Stones and Doors tribute band play. Who knew Jagger could speak fluent Portugese?
We got in about 4 as Jacob drove us home and continued driving on home for another hour, long night without a drop of alcohol! I was beginning to think I'd like Sao Paulo.

The next day I thought I'd be a bit more cultural and seeing that the MASP was right on my doorstep (oh you don't know? It's only the largest art gallery in the southern hemisphere darling) which was really good actually, there were some very prestigious works there (a lot of Raphael) and I was unfortunate to miss the Vermeer exhibition by just a few days. After lunch, Ross drove me to the Football museum which is at the main stadium in SP, and that was actually so good (despite being stopped in the carpark by the 'cardboard offials' who charged R$16 to park, I think Ross would've found a smashed window if he didn't pay) and I'm glad we did it, you can really see why the Brazilians are so honoured to support their team. We were met at the stadiums bar by Jacob and Larissa (his girlfrend) and after a drink we headed to the Hyde Park of SP. Again I had a really good time, there's some really cool things there (sorry i've forgotten the name of it) such as the performance theatre with the reverse stage that can perform outside as well as in! For those that don't know, SP has a reputation for it's food. It's deemed to be so good that even the Italians are jealous of SP's Italian food! This is due to the large amount of Italian and Japanese immigrants that have come over time and it just so happened some of them were michelin star chefs. Therefore that night I was treated to a pizza dinner with Ross, Jacob and Larissa (I really was being spoilt) and the food was great, although I think that maybe they were upset when I said that my pizza from Naples topped it...

On Sunday it was the big derby: Corinthians x Palmares. It was a great game, it ended 2-2 and unfortunately Corinthians didn't clinch it in the final minute with a bicycle kick from Romarinho (watch this space). After a few games of FIFA Ross took me to a cocktail bar - voted to do the best Capirinhas (Brazil's traditional cocktail) in SP, and I enjoyed one with pepper and the other I preferred with red fruits - there's something about spicy cocktails that's maybe too much for me. I guess I'm not a hotspice. Ross then showed me around the area where youth drunkards go on weekends to party on the streets (think 'flats' but in the centre of a city and with hundreds more people) but as it was Sunday homework was due and the street only offered hookers. The night ended with laughing at an air guitarist on the metro and a few games of FIFA - I think Ross and I had found something we truly bonded over.

Monday was my final full day in the city and I wanted to do the walk I planned to do on Friday if it wasn't for that 2hr wait. The walk was great, I saw so much of the city and even though almost everything was shut, I still got the vibes from the city that explained why they had to build a new city in order to make the capital of Brazil. Just like in Australia, the two main cities were so impressive and grand (yet so different) that a city was built merely to have a capital, Brasillia. Oh and you gotta see the German designed Cathedral! It's surreal! The walk lasted all day and it ended with a storm! It rained so hard and I saw the woman next to me get hit by a bin (LOL!) as the winds were so strong. I was drenched and when I got back I found a tree had landed on Ross' car!! It was nothing though, when we managed to get it off we found there wasn't even a scratch.
That night I was treated to a traditional 'set price' Brazillian dinner with Caroline and Ross, where I had some of the best meat i've had in months and was filled to the brim - it was the right send off to yet another incredible city. Of course the night ended with a last few games of FIFA with Ross!
I got the 10am bus the next day as I waved goodbye to Sao Paulo.

So what were my impressions? I don't understand why more people don't come here. Sao Paulo is an attractive dynamic, fast moving city that offers a night life that could rival Rio (obviously it didn't cos I was there for Carnaval but that's not fair).
The weather? Hot, not as unbearable as Rio. Unfortunately there'd been storms since Christmas, so every evening consisted of some showers. 
But yes, two great cities for the start of my 150 days, and I just hope that the rest of the continent can live up to them!

The end of my time in Rio

Monday 11th - Thursday 14th Feb
This will be another long post guys and gals, I gotta catch up time somehow. I'm typing this up on my iTouch on a bus to Curitiba so bare with me...

So yes, I got in very late from Sambodromo. We walked back (me and my mum!) through the streets of Rio in the early hours of Monday morning but of course the party was still as strong as ever. I hadn't actually got a place to stay last night as I thought I'd save myself a pointless R$150 (4x the standard rate) but I ended up crashing out on a bed anyway aha.
I was woken up by Jens who had just got in (mad one) after having breakfast with my mum, so as I felt okay I had breakfast with mum also and suggested that we walked to Copacobana (I like the beach, okay?!) because it was such a lovely day. If anyone is in Rio with their girlfriend and the weather is nice then I suggest doing this walk, the roads were empty (because of Carnaval) and we walked along the waterfront front for a few miles chatting away until we arrived at Copacobana beach. It was a really good walk and had a relatively cheap lunch on the beach - I say cheap as you should bare in mind they were collossal portions and the location alone should increase the prices - I think it was under £20 for the two of us. We found the haviannas flagship store (overrated) and got the metro back. The metro is an amazing place during carnaval, people have bags of beer and their singing and dancing and having a real party on it. You could easily spend the day on the metro if that was your thang. I like non-regurgetated oxygen, personally. For runners: it's like an indoor track. I'd been invited out by UCL Sophie and Soccer Seb so I was off for dinner with ma and would go out after. There's a big thing for 'per kilo' restaurants here. There's a set kilo price and you pay for however heavy your plate is - so if you like prawns I guess this is the place, but I got a stupidly large portion (a whole kilo!) and if you do it right, this is a really good place to eat, it was in fact recommended in my tour guide and was 2 blocks from the hostel.
The night was divided I guess. Just to prepare you, from now on my carnaval is kind of over. It ends really on the Sunday, but that's no excuse for my nights for the rest of the week. So we headed off to Copocobana beach for what we thought would be one of the blocos - but it was empty. So we ended up sitting around chatting on the beach front for an hour or so before me and Jens suggested 'Lapa?' The girls went back to the hostel and it was a lads trip to laps consisting of Jens, Sebastian and myself. The atmosphere was again booming and I think the boys fancied their chances with a señorita, I was feeling a little tired so I would wander around and watch them work instead... Lol. It was funny because it just seemed like everyone told them to do one. But in all it was still a good night and the highlight was sitting at the bottom of the lapa steps and just watching these thousands of people amass and get drunk together. I think the lapa steps is also full of pimps and hookers also so we didn't venture up them. Late night, 4/5am.

For the first time in my time here I slept past breakfast. I slept in to the afternoon even! Mum had done a whole fervela tour by the time I got up. I had told her how I now could locate the Lapa steps (and I actually wanted to see it when there weren't thousands of drunkards among them) so as everyone was asleep we left. It was a nice walk and again the temperature was ever increasing. We went via the bloco and were eventually in Lapa which was still, surprisingly, booming. The Lapa steps are incredible and cannot understand at all why they're not on the tourist map. There's so much colour, culture, story, emotion and feeling connected with this work of art created by someone just because he wanted to give something back to Rio. Mum got some good snaps so maybe I'll be able to show some pictures at some stage. We had lunch at a bar which was again enourmous and headed back as it was the evening. I ended up sitting as the desk of the hostel that night for a few hours, giving and taking dorm keys, taking people to their rooms and generally just coming across like I worked there, it was all good fun - especially when two Chilliean brothers were given 30% discount for a room without beds!!!
Mum and I stayed in to cook ourselves which was totally scrumptious (steak and mash). We'd been told there was a big bloco down at Copocobana tonight so we all headed down there - there wasn't. We found a beach hut and drank there for a bit and when I was offered back to the hotel of an old Brazilian drunkard we headed back to flamengo (where there was apparently yet another bloco). There again wasn't and we ended up just hanging out on the beach and fancied a swim that got me unwell for the next couple of days... Late night for something not amazing.

I'm gonna tell you now the next two days were pretty crappy. I had a bit of a bug so hung around the hostel and attempted to sort out some boring stuff like planning hostels, buses, ucl accomodation etc. So I'll just tell you about Wednesday and Thursday nights. It was all our last night in Rio on Wednesday bar Cindy and Luciana (who works here) so we did as we've done so many times before: we chipped in R$15 each and got a lot of beer and played drinking games and said how sad we all were to depart. On Thursday night I was getting the bus to Sao Paulo, so Luciana took me and Jens to a place to book our buses - I got a 6hr night bus for R$80 and Jens (who was setting off to Salvador) got 25hr bus for nearly R$300!! That night was very nice and it was the farewell I think Rio deserved. Jens, Luciana, Cindy and myself got the metro to Ipanema (somewhere I should've gone a few times as it is an amazing beach) and watched the sunset together until some idiot gringos applauded when the sun set - who on earth were they applauding, God? The earth's rotation? Pf, gringos. I got a cab to the bus station at midnight and got a coach to Sao Paulo with 3 people on my bus.


Rio is an incredible place and will probably always have a place in my heart. There is a vibe from Rio that I've not got anywhere else - it's the location, the people, the culture - everything! I look forward to July for my return flight from Rio (and I can actually visit Christ and Sugarloaf!)
Rio, you're amazing.

Carnaval!

Guys it's rediculous how far behind I am on this blog, but with this long entry of Carnaval weekend and an entrance tomorrow of last week's week I should be up to date with my current location: Sao Paulo, but you have a bit of reading till you get there!

Friday 8th - Sunday 10th February

So all those years ago I told you that I'd picked out my Carnaval gear and that I'd fallen asleep missing out on a full-blown Brazilian party with some Rio senioritas - you win some you lose some. I'm sure Nath preferred it as I Skype her on our anniversary.
My mum has been travelling since October and I'm due to see her on Sunday (this has obviously already happened but I'm trying to make it all seem up to date) but as she's visiting her friend in Sao Paulo I've been scheduled for a fervela tour with her travel group today. I think that most of them are idiots who spend their lives blogging about nothing and sitting on the hostel stairs smoking. But the fervela tour - now this, for anyone who goes to Rio is a must-see, in my eyes. I'm not an experienced traveller, I've not seen the poverty of Kenya or India, but on this tour you really understand a lot about the Rio culture. I mean it's not a competition, poverty, us gringos weren't there to pat them on the head, or to necessarily feel sorry for them, a lot were there for the million dollar views that look over all of Rio and understand why a lot of people just don't wanna leave. We went with a tour company called Be a Local so it was totally safe and only ventured in to selected areas. The tour guides, a lot of them at least, are from the fervelas and can offer guides in English, Spanish, Potugese, Yiddish, German, Italian... Yeah, pretty impressive for those without schooling.
The tour was really interesting, we learnt about the three gangs of the area, and throughout we saw the kites being flown, each of the movements meaning a different message for the drug lords in charge... Either that or they were just playing with the kites. I found out that there's actually a lot of exotic animals around the fervelas - I saw a turtle! A pet turtle in a fervela! - I saw a music performance, I was offered suma dat piff lemon and best of all, we had a de-tour as a transformer was being transported up the narrow streets so we went down a route that was not actually agreed to be stepped on - could have been a dark day for us all, but it was fine.
When I got back I was worried that I had missed out and was not going to be able to find my gringos till tomorrow, and until 11pm I was sure that was the case. They returned drunk from the first real Day Party of Carnaval - they told me of the girls they'd kissed, the events they'd witnessed - all in preparation for what I was due to see tonight. We were gong out about 11 as that was when Romelo and Luciana were off the clock, so in this time I designed what was to be my official carnaval top, a vest with a superman sign and 'Super Gringo' written on it aswell as Me Beija Eu Sou Gringo! Feel free to translate.
Our first stop was Salvador Square, a place filled with teenagers drinking away and hoping that they can get lucky in their Fred Flinstone costume (yeah, there's a lot of them during Carnaval). We weren't there long as I think some of the crew felt a little old, and we knew that it was Lapa where you would get the real feel... WOW. Lapa is Rio's party town but at Carnaval it is so much more. Thousands of people pour in to Lapa from all ages and costumes, everyone is pissed out of their head and looking to have a good time. There was a lot of us so there was no risk of any hassle, and it didn't take long till some of the crew 'pulled'. I had such an amazing night and we wolfed in a lot the atmosphere from areas that are key to the Rio culture - such as the Lapa steps. The best thing about the Carnaval is that unlike events in England, drinks are cheap. I could get two 350ml cans of beer for 6 reals (that's 2 pounds!) and for all of the night I felt safe. We got in about 6am and I had to process that this was to be my routine for the next week or so...

Despite getting in at ridiculous o'clock I got up for breakfast and enjoyed my fruit and juice (with some cake) and was fresh for the day. In the morning I got chatting to a British girl at the hostel, Sophie who I learnt is going to UCL in September (I know right!) so it was interesting to hear the routes of other gringos in their journey prior to Uni life. I'd been scheduled for yet another trip with mum's crew - I was going to watch Vasco vs Fluminense in a local derby. The temperature for the day was a modest 36 degrees and we were taken again by Be A Gringo although this time I didn't like them: it was a scam, we got dropped off at this petrol station area that had some stalls that offered beers and souvenirs and we waited there for hours (in this heat!) while each of the different groups arrived and we waited for the 5pm KO (we were there to buy beers and thus give them more money). So maybe if you're wanting to go to a football match when you're in Brazil, find out from the right people where not to sit and where to buy the tickets, cos I'm sure this is more expensive and equal hassle. The game was good to be fair. I've become a Vasco fan as the atmosphere was electric and the fans are so enthusiastic about their team and they actually play pretty attractive football!
 I got back about 8pm and again the Pineapple Gringos (our gang) were all out on the piss, telling me stories about how I'd missed out once again on the day's drinking. I was becoming a regular in the kitchen and I'm a better cook than I was back home (probably because I cook everyday while I'm here). Romelo had said there was a BBQ we could go to for the night, but that if we didn't like it we could go on to Carnaval, but we wanted the intimate experience of a Brazilian BBQ... It was Gay BBQ. I had no problem with this, I don't even know if I had a problem with being hit on by 'The Queen of Copacobana' (who was f*cking massive!!) it's just that Rio is the gay capital of the southern hemisphere and it seems that I'm being hit on by a lot of gay people on my journey! I had a great night though, everyone there was very friendly (not everyone was gay), the BBQ was delicious, and for 10 reals (3 quid) we had all the drink we wanted.. I just didn't have as much as the Queen had wanted me to drink! It was another late night and we could've spent longer there, however Jens had said he was seeing triple and he had become the new target of the Queen, so we ended the night at 5am :)

The problem with getting in late and living off four hours sleep is that it catches up on you. I'd been drinking endlessly for the past few days and my sleeping pattern was pushing me to the edge, so when you say to your mum that you'll pick her up from the airport when she has a flight that gets in at 12 you start to think that an early night is a better idea. The domestic airport is amazing in Rio, where City airport in London lands in Canning Town and is just full of businessmen, this airport is bang in the middle of Rio, and when you land you see Christ and Sugarloaf/hut out of the same window! (wow!) I walked to and from the airport from the hostel along the seafront, and in the beautiful weather it's a majestic walk. It was great to catch up with my mum, and I helped her with her bag so we could walk through the Bloco (street party) with 'no worries'. When we checked in I said to mum that we should venture to Lapa, and she enjoyed the walk that saw the streets of Rio and Lapa's atmosphere. We only stopped to grab a bite and a drink and returned as tonight was the heart of the Sambadromo! When we got in I slept on a sofa for 30 mins (as I'm such a nutter that I don't have accommodation for the night of Sambadromo  as the event finishes at 6am and there was a party afterwards nearby, and as prices quadruple for Carnaval I thought I'd save my money) to charge me for the night ahead. I'm not even going to comment on my mum's carnaval outfit. We all got really drunk and it was an hour's walk to the stadium and a long night of chanting, chatting, screaming, dancing, partying and appreciating some of the most incredible parades you could ever imagine! I spent a lot of it with a guy I actually like on mum's trip, Ty, a gay guy from the States who made me laugh for the most of the night. My Gringos actually had tickets also, but I'd got my section tickets months before and couldn't party away with them.

For anyone who has their heart set on visiting Rio for Carnaval (do it!!!) and wants to see the Sambadromo, get the Sunday tickets, you could get them a week in advance, and it really doesn't matter if you go alone. I got chatting with a group of Portugese girls who spoke really good english and they were telling me all about what the songs meant and the parade - one of the floats was dedicated to Germany's role as a saviour in Europe!!! If I was to do it again I'd pay a little more for the next best seats as, I had a great time and had some good views, but with section 10 you will see so much more! Well, that's the end of this post, I had an amazing Carnaval weekend, arguably the best of my life, and I would recommend anyone to experience this. Will update soon, never this long again I promise!

Over and out, T

Preparing for Carnaval

Friday is the first proper day of Carnaval, so we all set out on Thursday to get our outfits to prepare for the world's non- stop Party Weekend! We began by going back to Copacobana as Sassy and Tilda needed to collect their sambadromo tickets (something I oughta do before the football tomorrow) and were then off to Uruagayania, a crazy part of Rio which is loud and booming with bargains, BOGOFs and bogus products - it's Rio's market place.

It took me a while till i found anything. We had hoped to find a superman t-shirt that I could then edit to add 'super gringo' on it. They only had baby sizes and although I was all up for the fun of Carnaval a baby sized t-shirt was just a step too far for me.

As a result of a sexual remark on his first day, Jens picked up a pirate outfit as well as a beer helmet - such a good purchase for £6. The girls varied: Cindy, a nurse, got a nurses outfit. Sassy got yellow wings and a wig and I think Tilda got the same. I'm having to edit one of my own t-shirts to make a superman logo, but I did purchase a mask and Viking helmet - not to mention the greatest purchase of all: a two litre sized pineapple that is designed to cocktails, this baby is going to Machu Pichu, the gallopogos, Christ, the lot! 

When we arrived back at Catete we saw a pair of gringos in search of a hostel - with my 16-bed dorm having just me and Jens I told them there was most definitely a place to sleep after their 39/48 hours on a bus journey! They were really cool, Bart was a Dutch guy in his 20s who was the image of a south American traveller. He'd met Leanna ('it's Leanna, just remember Leanna-banana') who is from Texas and 23. She had quit her job to do all this. He'd been travelling with his girlfriend and the two met and decided to start travelling together as his girlfriend returned home in Peru.  Her last message to Leanna you ask: 'Just keep an eye on him!'

I spent the night at the cocktail bar upstairs after I made my dinner and was chatting with the two about their travels and they got me excited about it all. We had planned on going out with all the brazilians, and I am really gutted that I didn't in the end (I was pooped and when I was denied an energy drink by Luciana I was done for the night). Oh well, now I was charged for Friday - the day when Carnaval gets crackalackin! 

Also it meant I could Skype Nath on out anniversary which I'm sure put me in the good books. 

Venturing to Niterôi

I nearly missed breakfast in the morning which sucked, but I still got to enjoy some fruit so all was not at an end. I'd been told by Joyce on my first day that there was a fantastic art gallery in Niterôi that was free on Wednesdays, so I knew from then that this would be the day's adventure.  Niterôi is a town just east of Rio, very pretty and looks to be quite an affluent area. I got there easy enough, there's a main road by the hostel where I hailed a coach and was told the journey would be less than an hour.
I knew beforehand it would be R$6 fare, and the fact it said it on the front of the bus meant I wasn't gonna have this bus driver claiming I owed him 10 - geezer was heading for a slap. The coach was packed which wasn't too bad as it was well air-conditoned (as everything is in Rio) and I got to see the city demographics with a front view. When I arrived I was like 'wow darling'. The art gallery, Museu de Arte Contemporânea, looks like a spaceship that has landed conveniently on the coast that can over look all of Rio. Actually no, it looks more like a beyblade. I loved it there, the art was well, modern if that floats your boat and I got some good pictures and most importantly some Tommy time.

When I was done with the gallery I walked along the coast for a few hours as the weather was beautiful. That was arguably my most enjoyable part so far. The whole walk I overlooked the city and could see Christ in the distance. I can't wait to see Christ, however it's been cloudy so I'm postponing my visit to when I get back to Rio for my flight back in July. I only stopped my long walk as I stumbled across a Brazilian military base that I was not prepared to walk any closer to!
So after turning back I found the bus stop and saw a bus going to 'Centro'. When I was charged R$2.75 I thought i was a top don and that I would get the metro back when I arrived in the city centre... It was a local bus, going to the town's 'centro'.
I was told to get off the bus in a bus station where no one spoke English and I spent a good 30 mina rushing round, pointing at my map and being screamed at in Portugese of where to go - 'no comprende' was not the response they would have appreciated. Eventually, after crossing a road so busy it should be in India I hailed a bus going to 'Botafotogo which is a bit further from where Im staying and eventually I got home. Ah well, I'm R$2.75 worse off, 40 mins gone but I do have a story and an experience.

As soon as I got in I watched the mighty England conquer Brazil which is brilliant, and I let the workers here remember that score everyday. We finally went out to a club, and we were joined by Frnech Jerome who's in his 20s. I found out that it was a hostel party and should've realised it would be full of gringos (western white travellers). I didn't make any buddies there but I did enjoy it, I just wish I could have experienced a proper club in Rio, which locals attend and there's a greater 'ambiance'. However I'm  sure all the street parties for Carnaval will make up for this! 
I got to enjoy the sounds of Rihanna We Found Love three times, Nickie Minaj twice and sadly Danza Kudoro only once :( The paying system is so stupid in Brazil, you get given a card and you pay your tab when you leave. They had an entire dance floor in a queue where one person was sorting out the payments, crazy brazilias. 
Got back about 6am and the next day began at 10... I was getting in to a routine.

Doing Rio alone

After a late night of drinking at the hostel, it's needless to say that the majority of the troopers failed to make it to breakfast and I soon realised that I was gonna do it alone.
Other than the gardens yesterday, I hadn't done any sites yet, so I headed out of the hostel, turned left and headed in to the centre.
I'm sure a lot of people would think of Rio as being a really dangerous place, but you have to remember that this is a place that has landed the next World Cup and Olympic Games, it's really changed and not for a moment did I not feel safe. For those that have been, it's very similar to Rome. Once you reach Lapa the architecture is like that of Barcelona - in all Rio is a very European city.

I started off by seeing the a Lapa arches and my first perception of it: 'why the hell is this 6th on the to-do list?' they just look badly kept. I learnt from the girls later that going through in to Lapa is a great experience and the art around Lapa is amazing, so I'll be sure to do that soon enough. Just to the right of the arches is Cathedral Metropolitana - do not miss it! This is definitely the most amazing thing I've seen so far, the outside is unusual but not in your face. When I was inside I was mesmerised, and  for those that know Rome, it's just like the Pantheon. North, South, East, West is filled with a building high stained glass window and it's simply incredible. I could've and should've spent longer there. It is deliberately located so that you can see Christ in the mountains from it, and with a better camera, I'd have got some amazing shots.
I headed in to the city further and saw the Teatro Municipal, a fancy theatre that I couldn't enter but is beautifully designed. I then was on a slow moving process where I sat in a town square for a while as I looked around at the mountains and eventually I did as Neil Strauss quoted 'As any good PuA does and went sarging at the museum of modern art'. It's a good location, but the design is rubbish and thought I'd postpone a paid visit for another day and chose to walk along they the water instead. I was really happy at this point and looked forward to the future at all of the other cities and towns that I was destined to visit.

I got in that evening and decided that it was time for a run. For any runners that are reading this - Flamengo park is on the tourist list, run it. It's fantastic with a great cycle path that sees old men with shopping bags, kids, couples, adrenalin junkies and just your average runner pushing through the 30 degree temperature and looking up to the mountains as you listen to the sound of the ocean - it is easily one of the best runs of my life, and for my cousins, the park is just like Cairns. Also wouldn't reccommend bombing out at 6 minute mailing, the humidity gets you just as the heat does.
I was laughed at, obviously, for my white man shorts, but I was hardly gonna wear track suit bottoms. The night was very similar to the night before as it pissed it down and with zero zero being half-open, we decided to bring in 9 crates of beer (nine!! We had three people on the street shout at me and my mate - who were carrying 4 each - 'you crazy gringos!!) that was a highlight of my trip. Not as late as last night but there were more of us and just as enjoyable.

I want to go out in the night more though - I'm disappointed in myself for not venturing in, however hopefully when I next update this there'll be funnier stories from the nights and I'm sure Carnaval will be something like nothing else in the world!
I also met this freak last night who told me he cried when he watched the opening ceremony cos there were so many beautiful women... This is Rio.

Making something of my time here

I may have said in my earlier posts that it's all very well and good going to the beach every day, but the cityboy inside was thinking 'well actually I should actually try and see the city that is trying to live up to London actually'.
So over breakfast I was discussing with Jens and Joyce what to do and it was decided that, despite the rain, a trip to the Botanical gardens would be great. What a decision, highly recommended for anyone who comes to Rio. It was number three on my tourist map behind Christ and Sugarloaf (I really think TOWIE should do Rio and they can start a petition to change it to Sugar Hut!) so it's not like it's Rio's secret or anything.
Anyway, we got the bus there and was easy enough to find, and for R$6 (£2) it's a real bargain. The garden is incredible and was very good for picturetimes. Unfortunately I'm struggling to do something with my pictures as I've only got an iPad which is difficult to connect with a camera, but when I'm in Sao Paulo (the business capital or Brazil) I think I'll be able to sort something out.

But yeah we got to see an amazing garden, one of the best I've ever been to. We were there for quite a few hours and got back to the hostel in the evening, where my iPad was down to about 10% battery so I revised some Spanish while it charged: 'Hola señorita, me hablo español muy bien! Que tal?' I'm pretty sure that was awfully written as I'm sure my mother will tell me. They don't speak Spanish in Brazil as anyone who has seen that Simpsons episode will know, but the rest of Latin America speak it (other than French Guyana which speaks Polish I think).

Anyway, got to know two of the girls a bit better, cooking got better and, after finding the local bars weren't open - probably hibernating for Carnaval which officially starts today - we got some drinks in, played Ring of Fire and had a really good night at the hostel! So yeah I'm starting to enjoy it here. I'm keeping a tally of all my expenditure and it's not THAT expensive, and seeing as Rio is the most expensive place on my visits, hopefully I'll be alright!
Oh yeah, and we ventured to probably the equivalent of BBQ Express (RIP chicken spot) and I had easily the worst burger I've ever eaten in my life, but for only two quid it wasn't the end of the world. The owner refused me a cuddle which was heart breaking. 

Probably more sightseeing today and apparently a club tonight (ZeroZero), gonna need a nap this evening for sure as i got to bed at 4 and was up at 9!
Thinking about lots of you, Tommy.

Being introduced to Rio

So I left you at sitting in the lobby before I set off to Copacobana.
Well I'm staying in Catete, a cool up and coming part of Rio - not quite the hip$ter centre like Shoreditch, but then again it's too hot to be wearing your grandad's old knitted jumper round here or to grow a beard. It's just south of the centre and we got the metro five stops to the beach. The metro here is very good - it's as efficient as London, cheaper and better air conditioned (for those that are wondering). The beaches are beautiful, and I immediately had to take some pictures when we made base, it was simply amazing.
The weather was scorching and I learnt the hard way the worst reason to travel alone - how your gonna put suncream on your back? I was soon burnt and now my back looks like some freak result of the Chernobyl explosion. But I guess it's not too bad, I got my charmander to level 12 on Pokemon red, learnt from the girls about their experiences in Rio and got to enjoy the sea, goodtimes. However every silver lining has an annoying posh 30 year old which saw her assume I wanted to have a conversation with her( Um hello? [knocks on table twice] I don't know you and your only wearing sunglasses that big cos your bun). She talked at us for a couple of hours about how she had travelled the world and been to the moon yada yada - we didn't even ask her about anything! However Joyce, the mickey mass, was very pleasent to her as she is always and the whole confrontation was over..... Or so I thought!

We got back and a pop-up cocktail bar was placed in the kitchen area/balcony place so I couldn't make my dinner. I took some inspiration from my university buddies and microwaved a lasagne which was beautiful. The cocktail bar was kinda cool, just barely anyone in the hostel was there, but that meant we got chatting to the workers and all was good. I made a new buddy, Jens, a Dutch 19 year old who loves Cusco (Peru) and was 3 months in to his journey. We enjoyed the night as Luciana, the Brazilian girl who works on the desk, came and sat with us and we chatted for hours which was very welcoming. Then the night began!!

I realise the post is long and don't want them to be this long, but it was a stupidly long day as you'll read. We were invited to someone's birthday do, they were celebrating it on the beach and we all gathered about midnight and made the short walknto the nearby beach. There was one surprising disappointment though - the annoying 30 year old from the beach, Tracy, had been in contact with Joyce and joined us! (get a life!) To be fair to her, it was fine as the atmosphere of the night was so memorable, it's just a shame that I became her target audience for the night as she continued to tell me about travelling as well as commenting on how I was so mature for my age (she was without a doubt a massive cougar) and also how she was fluent in pretty much all Latin languages, I replied that I got a B at GCSE German (even with the extensive work of Milan being responsibl for most of my grade) which interested her zero.
The atmosphere was literally amazing. There we all were, sitting on the beach chatting, some drinking with a big speaker playing Bob Marley throughout - with one less person it would've been bliss. As people began to leave, the core of my social circle, the 3 girls, Jens, Luciana and a few of the hostel workers stayed until sunrise. Got in at 7, showered, slept till 1045 to catch the end of breakfast, slept again and returned to the beach.

I started to think that maybe I should start to see Rio (so we rented out the film for a lazy Sunday night).

The first morning

I don't intend to be updating my blog every 12 hours as that is just rediculous, however I've made some associates and we're leaving in 30 mins so I thought I'd allow myself this one time.

I had a pretty crap night sleep, not gonna lie. Whenever you're in a new place you don't know how safe you are (not that I'm speaking from any experience) so when people were getting in soon after I got to bed, I always had the concern people may want to pinch something from my bag or break my locker, but I'm sure it's all pretty safe from now on - got a couple of Japanese travelling girls there now so I don't fear them.

I got up off a sketchy 5 hours sleep and felt fine, however I desperately wanted a shower  and when I found out the water wasn't gonna be working for an hour or so, I wondered what kind of hell hole I was in. But then 8am struck and all was el fantastico - breakfast is free! It was lovely, filled with bread, butter, fruit, juice, coffee, biscuits a balcony view and the sounds of Pitbull in the background what more could I ask for? For the first time (cos you know I've been here soo long) I felt like I'd made the right decision. I washed and came back as I stocked up on the buffet in hope it can last me till dinner. I met a 25year old girl from Liverpool who was on a photography course with a travelling company and a Dutch girl who, I believe is with the same company but is volunteer in an orphanage is rio.
They were friendly and the mickey mass (scouce) was very helpful in giving me confidence (she'd been here a week now) and gave me a lot of tips on where to go, what to do, how to act. It was nice.

I went on a walk to wolf in the atmosphere, found a supermercado, bought some water and ventured back to add a plastic bag to my rucksack. I have now been invited to Copacabana (hoping Barry Manilow might be performing a number when I get there) so I'm sure I'll let you know how it'll goes soon enough.

Hugs and kisses,
Tommy

Bidding farewell

For those who spoke to me on the night before or the morning of my flight, they would know I was very emotional as I waved away to my easy western lifestyle and embarked on a hot and sweaty journey around a continent that I didn't know the language of. Nath was my saviour last night in ensuring all was packed, and we were out of the house by 06.30am - getting to heathrow for 08.00am which was great as it was an hour before check in and allowed Nath and I to have a couple of hours together, pretty emotional to say the least.

 Flight was a bit late but all was fine. Rio is a very hot place - probably hotter now that I'm in town. It's very humid and it's currently one in the morning. The cab journey was pleasent but probably too expensive (I stupidly forgot to get a yellow and blue taxi and instead booked with radio taxis who charge more) but my driver was fine, he 'welcomed' me to Brazil and in his broken English he pointed out Christ as well as a few fervelaz, however towards the end her just gave up and spoke to me in Portuguese which normally resulted in me saying 'no comprende' or 'okay'. The hostel is not glamour but seems safe. Sorting everything out and hopefully see some young Brits tomorrow that I can annoy and feel a bit safer with. Speak soon, tommy.