February 26th - 28th 2013
Tommy, how the hell are you giving all these blog updates, it's been a month with nothing?!
Guys, I'm writing this having spent 23 out of the past 24 hours on a bus, I might as well do something practical.
So yes, I arrived and ditched the poshies and got a local bus in to Foz. There's definitely a lot of money to be made in Foz in the club scene, there's literally zero to do other than the falls so most people just stay there a day.
I found my hostel and after freshening up I was out to the falls. It just takes a local bus that costs about 40p to go direct to the falls, and I met two German girls on the way who'd just started their trip who were a year in to their studies.
Most people that you meet will say the Argentine side of the falls is better, however I personally prefered the Brazilian side (Foz do Igaçu). On this side you pay to enter and you can stop at mutilple places for extra activities, but I'm on a budget so I enjoyed the 1.5 mile walk along the falls, where you see some of the most remarkable panoramic views of falls - so great that Eleanor Roosevelt remarked 'poor Niagra' on visiting them. I had an amazing time there, the view is simply astonishing and you even have oppurtunities to go white water rafting and in a boat beneath them. The image of them was enough for me, so astonishing.
I spent the entire day there, some times just say that looking in to the falls, I'd hope that I got some pretty good shots.
Got a bus back and picked up some food for dinner that night. The hostel was really nice, it had a pool and the social area was like a beach hut, so cool. So I had a swim and later cooked, and afterwards collected my free Capirinha (official cocktail of Brazil) and got chatting with the social circle that included the entire hostel.
I had a really goodnight and met so many interesting people - and a few losers like the girl who arrived the same time as me, spent the whole day by the pool and was to spend the whole of the next day there also. The night was pretty funny actually, this American got drunk and threatened to beat us all up (not me, for some reason I was an ally!) and he was crushing his beer cans to show what a badass he was!! Then the best bits, he claimed to be a partof the Hells Angels - to which I queried 'hey Dan, why is there no aostrophe in 'Hells'?' he definitely didn't see the funny side. Then an Aussie threatened to attack him for the offensive comments he was making to women (an Aussie!!! Complaining about sexism! I know!)
So I got up early and as I rose I saw Alex, James and Jack from Floripa, and we were all booked in to Millhouse Ave so would hook up again on the weekend. I had my fry-up that was a part of the package and went with the German girls to get some argentine pesos for my reals. After that I had my bags and got a local bus to Argentina (how cool is that! Another country for 40p!!)
The way it works is, unless this is the standard (regular commute from Foz - Puerto Iguaçu) then you are dropped off at the Argentine border, get a stamp, and wait for the next bus that takes you to customs (however they wait for you at customs). I met an American girl who went to USC (Univeriaty of Spoilt Children/Southern California) and we got chatting a lot however she, being an American with visas, was in customs so long the bus left and I didn't see her again. Upon arrival at the bus station I bought my ticket for that night to Buenos Aires, dropped my bags and got a bus to the Argentine side of the falls (sounds like I'm moving fast, huh? I departed from the Etonians 26 hours prior).
The Argentine falls are absolutely spectacular and even more tourist-y and packed than the Brazilian side. I was pretty sad to be out of Brazil actually, I love that country so much, and I can't wait to come back in July!
I was also pretty pissed off when my camera broke (yeah, it broke at THE place to take pictures) and maybe that's why I never loved Argentina as much.
I was at the falls for hours and hours, and when I returned I had a little over an hour till my bus to BA, so I christened my first day in a different country with a steak and chips. No lie or even exageration, the steak was probably as big as my head. It was good times but a bit of a waste of money seeing that I then was introduced to Argentine buses - champagne (not a lie) and 3 meals.
The journey was fine and Buenos Aires welcomed me with it's slums that are conveniently situated next to the bus station, or 'rodivario' if you're ever in need of the word. I was pretty disapointed with Millhouse's (my hostel) directions so I ended up getting a cab that was kinda nice cos I wanted a shower and I got to see some of the beautiful city. I was about to meet friends here from home and enjoy the most visited city in South America for the next two weeks... Let's hope it didn't disapoint!
Friday 5 April 2013
Iguaçu and a bit of BA
February 26th - 28th 2013
Tommy, how the hell are you giving all these blog updates, it's been a month with nothing?!
Guys, I'm writing this having spent 23 out of the past 24 hours on a bus, I might as well do something practical.
So yes, I arrived and ditched the poshies and got a local bus in to Foz. There's definitely a lot of money to be made in Foz in the club scene, there's literally zero to do other than the falls so most people just stay there a day.
I found my hostel and after freshening up I was out to the falls. It just takes a local bus that costs about 40p to go direct to the falls, and I met two German girls on the way who'd just started their trip who were a year in to their studies.
Most people that you meet will say the Argentine side of the falls is better, however I personally prefered the Brazilian side (Foz do Igaçu). On this side you pay to enter and you can stop at mutilple places for extra activities, but I'm on a budget so I enjoyed the 1.5 mile walk along the falls, where you see some of the most remarkable panoramic views of falls - so great that Eleanor Roosevelt remarked 'poor Niagra' on visiting them. I had an amazing time there, the view is simply astonishing and you even have oppurtunities to go white water rafting and in a boat beneath them. The image of them was enough for me, so astonishing.
I spent the entire day there, some times just say that looking in to the falls, I'd hope that I got some pretty good shots.
Got a bus back and picked up some food for dinner that night. The hostel was really nice, it had a pool and the social area was like a beach hut, so cool. So I had a swim and later cooked, and afterwards collected my free Capirinha (official cocktail of Brazil) and got chatting with the social circle that included the entire hostel.
I had a really goodnight and met so many interesting people - and a few losers like the girl who arrived the same time as me, spent the whole day by the pool and was to spend the whole of the next day there also. The night was pretty funny actually, this American got drunk and threatened to beat us all up (not me, for some reason I was an ally!) and he was crushing his beer cans to show what a badass he was!! Then the best bits, he claimed to be a partof the Hells Angels - to which I queried 'hey Dan, why is there no aostrophe in 'Hells'?' he definitely didn't see the funny side. Then an Aussie threatened to attack him for the offensive comments he was making to women (an Aussie!!! Complaining about sexism! I know!)
So I got up early and as I rose I saw Alex, James and Jack from Floripa, and we were all booked in to Millhouse Ave so would hook up again on the weekend. I had my fry-up that was a part of the package and went with the German girls to get some argentine pesos for my reals. After that I had my bags and got a local bus to Argentina (how cool is that! Another country for 40p!!)
The way it works is, unless this is the standard (regular commute from Foz - Puerto Iguaçu) then you are dropped off at the Argentine border, get a stamp, and wait for the next bus that takes you to customs (however they wait for you at customs). I met an American girl who went to USC (Univeriaty of Spoilt Children/Southern California) and we got chatting a lot however she, being an American with visas, was in customs so long the bus left and I didn't see her again. Upon arrival at the bus station I bought my ticket for that night to Buenos Aires, dropped my bags and got a bus to the Argentine side of the falls (sounds like I'm moving fast, huh? I departed from the Etonians 26 hours prior).
The Argentine falls are absolutely spectacular and even more tourist-y and packed than the Brazilian side. I was pretty sad to be out of Brazil actually, I love that country so much, and I can't wait to come back in July!
I was also pretty pissed off when my camera broke (yeah, it broke at THE place to take pictures) and maybe that's why I never loved Argentina as much.
I was at the falls for hours and hours, and when I returned I had a little over an hour till my bus to BA, so I christened my first day in a different country with a steak and chips. No lie or even exageration, the steak was probably as big as my head. It was good times but a bit of a waste of money seeing that I then was introduced to Argentine buses - champagne (not a lie) and 3 meals.
The journey was fine and Buenos Aires welcomed me with it's slums that are conveniently situated next to the bus station, or 'rodivario' if you're ever in need of the word. I was pretty disapointed with Millhouse's (my hostel) directions so I ended up getting a cab that was kinda nice cos I wanted a shower and I got to see some of the beautiful city. I was about to meet friends here from home and enjoy the most visited city in South America for the next two weeks... Let's hope it didn't disapoint!
Tommy, how the hell are you giving all these blog updates, it's been a month with nothing?!
Guys, I'm writing this having spent 23 out of the past 24 hours on a bus, I might as well do something practical.
So yes, I arrived and ditched the poshies and got a local bus in to Foz. There's definitely a lot of money to be made in Foz in the club scene, there's literally zero to do other than the falls so most people just stay there a day.
I found my hostel and after freshening up I was out to the falls. It just takes a local bus that costs about 40p to go direct to the falls, and I met two German girls on the way who'd just started their trip who were a year in to their studies.
Most people that you meet will say the Argentine side of the falls is better, however I personally prefered the Brazilian side (Foz do Igaçu). On this side you pay to enter and you can stop at mutilple places for extra activities, but I'm on a budget so I enjoyed the 1.5 mile walk along the falls, where you see some of the most remarkable panoramic views of falls - so great that Eleanor Roosevelt remarked 'poor Niagra' on visiting them. I had an amazing time there, the view is simply astonishing and you even have oppurtunities to go white water rafting and in a boat beneath them. The image of them was enough for me, so astonishing.
I spent the entire day there, some times just say that looking in to the falls, I'd hope that I got some pretty good shots.
Got a bus back and picked up some food for dinner that night. The hostel was really nice, it had a pool and the social area was like a beach hut, so cool. So I had a swim and later cooked, and afterwards collected my free Capirinha (official cocktail of Brazil) and got chatting with the social circle that included the entire hostel.
I had a really goodnight and met so many interesting people - and a few losers like the girl who arrived the same time as me, spent the whole day by the pool and was to spend the whole of the next day there also. The night was pretty funny actually, this American got drunk and threatened to beat us all up (not me, for some reason I was an ally!) and he was crushing his beer cans to show what a badass he was!! Then the best bits, he claimed to be a partof the Hells Angels - to which I queried 'hey Dan, why is there no aostrophe in 'Hells'?' he definitely didn't see the funny side. Then an Aussie threatened to attack him for the offensive comments he was making to women (an Aussie!!! Complaining about sexism! I know!)
So I got up early and as I rose I saw Alex, James and Jack from Floripa, and we were all booked in to Millhouse Ave so would hook up again on the weekend. I had my fry-up that was a part of the package and went with the German girls to get some argentine pesos for my reals. After that I had my bags and got a local bus to Argentina (how cool is that! Another country for 40p!!)
The way it works is, unless this is the standard (regular commute from Foz - Puerto Iguaçu) then you are dropped off at the Argentine border, get a stamp, and wait for the next bus that takes you to customs (however they wait for you at customs). I met an American girl who went to USC (Univeriaty of Spoilt Children/Southern California) and we got chatting a lot however she, being an American with visas, was in customs so long the bus left and I didn't see her again. Upon arrival at the bus station I bought my ticket for that night to Buenos Aires, dropped my bags and got a bus to the Argentine side of the falls (sounds like I'm moving fast, huh? I departed from the Etonians 26 hours prior).
The Argentine falls are absolutely spectacular and even more tourist-y and packed than the Brazilian side. I was pretty sad to be out of Brazil actually, I love that country so much, and I can't wait to come back in July!
I was also pretty pissed off when my camera broke (yeah, it broke at THE place to take pictures) and maybe that's why I never loved Argentina as much.
I was at the falls for hours and hours, and when I returned I had a little over an hour till my bus to BA, so I christened my first day in a different country with a steak and chips. No lie or even exageration, the steak was probably as big as my head. It was good times but a bit of a waste of money seeing that I then was introduced to Argentine buses - champagne (not a lie) and 3 meals.
The journey was fine and Buenos Aires welcomed me with it's slums that are conveniently situated next to the bus station, or 'rodivario' if you're ever in need of the word. I was pretty disapointed with Millhouse's (my hostel) directions so I ended up getting a cab that was kinda nice cos I wanted a shower and I got to see some of the beautiful city. I was about to meet friends here from home and enjoy the most visited city in South America for the next two weeks... Let's hope it didn't disapoint!
Thursday 4 April 2013
16 hours with the Etonians
February 25th - 26th 2013
Yes, I am devoting an entire log entry to the bus journey with my best friends. Buy then again, I'm typing this whilst on a 24 hour bus up the coast of Chile, so not every journey is enjoyable I guess.
So I see my buddies and I ask the one who had claimed to be a 'Hammer mate' whether he knew the score of Tottenham vs West Ham, but he didn't and therefore he was totally useless to me. However he then stopped to ask what seat I was in and if I could 'be a massive ledge'.
'Do you mind swapping seats with my mate Rory? He's on his own and if you move then the boys are all together!'
'Is it a window seat?'
'Can't guarantee you a window seat mate!'
'Oh okay i'm not gonna move then'
'Fair enough mate.'
Fucking bender. So I had my window seat and I was sat with Tobes, he was beyond posh. So he'd been rejected by Oxbridge twice, he went to Eton, he was 'making the most of my gap yah mate' oh, and of course he rowed... And played Rugby Union. He couldn't understand how I preferred league.
So Tobes mate, what did you all do to save up? Well Chadders worked in a prep school, in fact all of them did. But he's such a liability mate he got fired like twice so I imagine he's living out of the pocket mate.
Oh okay, that sounds amazing. What did you do Tobes? Oh well I worked as a Maths asistant in a 'state school in Chalk Farm'. Ah man, sounds tough. Yeah mate like I just didn't get it, people there were not at all driven like us Etonians..... 'But that was actually volunteer work so my Dad paid me'.
Oh I see.
So what did you do mate? Oh me? I just worked on building sites around London, some sites I arrived at 7am and left at 7pm - I was a labourer for 6 months.
Mate I can imagine that was absolute banter, like breaks all the time and just all the lads at the cafe?! No, actually most were pretty poor and a lot couldn't speak English very well.
Anyway, they were gonna spend like 3 days at Foz (you need less than one) and Tobes had a cousin who owned a ranch in Argentina so him, Chadders and Hugo ('cos we all ride' of course) were all 'gonna be riding round the ranch for two weeks pretending to be Gauchos!'
This was the end of my conversation and I said goodbye as soon as I got off the bus. They all seemed to be going to universities that I'd rejected. I wonder if I'll see them again...
Wednesday 3 April 2013
From Curitiba to Florianopolis
February 22nd - February 25th
Well, long time time no speak! (on my behalf) I don't think anyone even really remembers where we left off, so now I'm to backtrack a whole month and let you know what went dowwwwn.
So yes, I left Curitiba at 5am after being at the gaybar (cos Gasper prefers gaybars in Curitiba) till 4am and ate my apple in the waiting area to sober me up for my 7 hour coach (believe me folks, that is nothing.)
I arrived in sunny Florianopolis, or as the well-cultured call it: 'Floripa'. It's a beach town and when I woke up it was light and I slightly regretted sleeping after seeing the green scenary that surrounded me. Upon arrival I only knew the name of the hostel I was staying at, and that Florianopolis was so big it really did matter where you stayed, so I waved a taxi and was told it would be R$40 'mas o menos' (more or less) - gotta keep up the essexisms even when speaking in another language. Not gonna lie I was pretty pissed off at this point and slightly regretted coming, but when I arrived I was happy to see the lagoon and my hostel was fabtastic. I dropped my bags, showered, saw my room and walked in to town.
Floripa is very nice, it's like Newquay (obviously not as good) and it's full to the brim with Ozzies 'that jus wanna go to the fucking beach, crack open some beeers wiv me mates, get drank and maybe fight some cant!' that is my general view of Ozzies so far. And I don't think I'm that far off!
Didn't do much on my first day, I bought some food, fell asleep on the lagoon for like 3 hours in the sun and met Rochy. Rochy is a lovely Mexican girl who was in my room with her brother Polo, and that night after I'd made my pork chops with mash potato and fried onions we went out for a drink in town with the gang (who consisted of two protein junkies, mexicans and brazilians) and that was about it, didn't say much as the general conversation was in portugese, but I did learn Rochy was gonna live and study here - day one done.
The next day was probably one of my most enjoyed trips so far, rochy had invited me to the beach and we had formed my most international gang so far - me, two mexicans, two Germans and a Brazilian. Quite a bit of hand signing going around the table to say the least. We decided to get a boat that took us out in to the bluest sea and afterwards (for a discount) the shallow lagoon. I had a really good day, it helped that Florianopolis put the 2 week storms on hold for the 4 days I was there :) the tour was done by a Swiss grandad, his Dutch daughter and with his 4 year old Brazilian grandaughter! It was brilliantly done and they even drove the boat the whole way across the lagoon to drop us to our side (what a ledge). That night we all helped cook a dinner of a large aray of vegetables and a selection of meat - for R$6 each I thought it was a steal! However none of the team fancied going out to the club (which in hindsight I don't know if I regret, financially) so I got chatting with some new arrivals, 3 British lads, a kiwi with 4 fingers and a girl who was the image of someone on their travels. The club was a short walk away and it was where I met Faith, a Californian girl who's studying in Buenos Aires and after a bit of a de tour for ID, we went in. The club was good, not exactly my style and was certainly pricey and was what I imagine China White to look like. I had a good night, favourite moments are either when the Swedish guy at the hostel who was pissed out of his head (leaving the next morning) told me I could live with him in Oslo - no you're right, he didn't know my name - or either when two Stortford girls started chatting me up (no lie) and then they tried to act like they were the ting and so I just walked off mid-conversation and found Faith (as my new buddy, not Christ). The night ended around 6am with Tyler, the protein junky, who had paid R&150 so that he could get that much in drinks, so after some cufuffling he got his 6 heinekens, gave me three and we smashed them on the ground as a statement of 'I'm Tyler, and I'm a badass'. This is the same man who told me he drank 6 bottles (normal sized) of Jack Daniels in one night and then drove a truck!
Didn't get much sleep and I joined Alex, travel girl and 4 fingers to the beach where we'd planned to do surf lessons but instead laid on the beach for hours. On the way to the beach I met people who I believe I was destined to become best friends with - 6 private school lads who were on there gap yah. Wasn't too bad though, we only got 15 minute bus with them as we listened to there 'absolute lad banter' night on the dunes (word for word how they described it), it wasn't as though they were gonna be sat next to me tomorrow night on a 16 hour bus to Iguazu or anything....
The day at the beach was pleaseny, we enjoyed a fresh fruit smoothie at the beach bar and sat and chatted (well, I just slept really). That night we all went out on the free bikes the hostel offers (seriously good hostel) and flossed away our money on a sushi buffet that I really shouldn't have got. The night out was funny though, I joined two 8ft ozzies to a 'samba night' at this beach hut and had a really good night, where I met some really interesting people, like Abo the Mexican and his mate who was travelling for 2 years. I chose not to chat to the posh kids as they arrived, I disliked them even more when they sat there singing Niggas in Paris (have you ever even met a black person?) The taxi home made the night though, as Adrian had taken a shit load of cocaine and was on a universal buzz, demanding to find a club on this humble Monday morning at 5am. I think I laughed the entire journey! I got back about 5am and, despite going over budget I was happy that I'd come to Floripa.
The next day I just did the usual, put on my Essex vest and short shorts (which in that weather - 34 degrees - I really can't understand why I would look odd going in to town, just in them and a red vest with a big ESSEX on it. I seem to always meet new people wearing that vest, and they find it confusing that i'm not actually from Essex.
So yeah, booked my ticket and saw the poshies again - surely they were gonna book another bus, surely. I went out got lunch with Alex and co. and when it began to rain I too that as a hint I was leaving at exactly the right time. I said my farewells, to the lovely staff as well as Rochy, Faith and I was to see the boys again and again. Got a cab to the bus terminal and arrived with 5 minutes to spare only to be welcomed by the posh kids! Oh well, only 16 hours till Iguaçu....
Well, long time time no speak! (on my behalf) I don't think anyone even really remembers where we left off, so now I'm to backtrack a whole month and let you know what went dowwwwn.
So yes, I left Curitiba at 5am after being at the gaybar (cos Gasper prefers gaybars in Curitiba) till 4am and ate my apple in the waiting area to sober me up for my 7 hour coach (believe me folks, that is nothing.)
I arrived in sunny Florianopolis, or as the well-cultured call it: 'Floripa'. It's a beach town and when I woke up it was light and I slightly regretted sleeping after seeing the green scenary that surrounded me. Upon arrival I only knew the name of the hostel I was staying at, and that Florianopolis was so big it really did matter where you stayed, so I waved a taxi and was told it would be R$40 'mas o menos' (more or less) - gotta keep up the essexisms even when speaking in another language. Not gonna lie I was pretty pissed off at this point and slightly regretted coming, but when I arrived I was happy to see the lagoon and my hostel was fabtastic. I dropped my bags, showered, saw my room and walked in to town.
Floripa is very nice, it's like Newquay (obviously not as good) and it's full to the brim with Ozzies 'that jus wanna go to the fucking beach, crack open some beeers wiv me mates, get drank and maybe fight some cant!' that is my general view of Ozzies so far. And I don't think I'm that far off!
Didn't do much on my first day, I bought some food, fell asleep on the lagoon for like 3 hours in the sun and met Rochy. Rochy is a lovely Mexican girl who was in my room with her brother Polo, and that night after I'd made my pork chops with mash potato and fried onions we went out for a drink in town with the gang (who consisted of two protein junkies, mexicans and brazilians) and that was about it, didn't say much as the general conversation was in portugese, but I did learn Rochy was gonna live and study here - day one done.
The next day was probably one of my most enjoyed trips so far, rochy had invited me to the beach and we had formed my most international gang so far - me, two mexicans, two Germans and a Brazilian. Quite a bit of hand signing going around the table to say the least. We decided to get a boat that took us out in to the bluest sea and afterwards (for a discount) the shallow lagoon. I had a really good day, it helped that Florianopolis put the 2 week storms on hold for the 4 days I was there :) the tour was done by a Swiss grandad, his Dutch daughter and with his 4 year old Brazilian grandaughter! It was brilliantly done and they even drove the boat the whole way across the lagoon to drop us to our side (what a ledge). That night we all helped cook a dinner of a large aray of vegetables and a selection of meat - for R$6 each I thought it was a steal! However none of the team fancied going out to the club (which in hindsight I don't know if I regret, financially) so I got chatting with some new arrivals, 3 British lads, a kiwi with 4 fingers and a girl who was the image of someone on their travels. The club was a short walk away and it was where I met Faith, a Californian girl who's studying in Buenos Aires and after a bit of a de tour for ID, we went in. The club was good, not exactly my style and was certainly pricey and was what I imagine China White to look like. I had a good night, favourite moments are either when the Swedish guy at the hostel who was pissed out of his head (leaving the next morning) told me I could live with him in Oslo - no you're right, he didn't know my name - or either when two Stortford girls started chatting me up (no lie) and then they tried to act like they were the ting and so I just walked off mid-conversation and found Faith (as my new buddy, not Christ). The night ended around 6am with Tyler, the protein junky, who had paid R&150 so that he could get that much in drinks, so after some cufuffling he got his 6 heinekens, gave me three and we smashed them on the ground as a statement of 'I'm Tyler, and I'm a badass'. This is the same man who told me he drank 6 bottles (normal sized) of Jack Daniels in one night and then drove a truck!
Didn't get much sleep and I joined Alex, travel girl and 4 fingers to the beach where we'd planned to do surf lessons but instead laid on the beach for hours. On the way to the beach I met people who I believe I was destined to become best friends with - 6 private school lads who were on there gap yah. Wasn't too bad though, we only got 15 minute bus with them as we listened to there 'absolute lad banter' night on the dunes (word for word how they described it), it wasn't as though they were gonna be sat next to me tomorrow night on a 16 hour bus to Iguazu or anything....
The day at the beach was pleaseny, we enjoyed a fresh fruit smoothie at the beach bar and sat and chatted (well, I just slept really). That night we all went out on the free bikes the hostel offers (seriously good hostel) and flossed away our money on a sushi buffet that I really shouldn't have got. The night out was funny though, I joined two 8ft ozzies to a 'samba night' at this beach hut and had a really good night, where I met some really interesting people, like Abo the Mexican and his mate who was travelling for 2 years. I chose not to chat to the posh kids as they arrived, I disliked them even more when they sat there singing Niggas in Paris (have you ever even met a black person?) The taxi home made the night though, as Adrian had taken a shit load of cocaine and was on a universal buzz, demanding to find a club on this humble Monday morning at 5am. I think I laughed the entire journey! I got back about 5am and, despite going over budget I was happy that I'd come to Floripa.
The next day I just did the usual, put on my Essex vest and short shorts (which in that weather - 34 degrees - I really can't understand why I would look odd going in to town, just in them and a red vest with a big ESSEX on it. I seem to always meet new people wearing that vest, and they find it confusing that i'm not actually from Essex.
So yeah, booked my ticket and saw the poshies again - surely they were gonna book another bus, surely. I went out got lunch with Alex and co. and when it began to rain I too that as a hint I was leaving at exactly the right time. I said my farewells, to the lovely staff as well as Rochy, Faith and I was to see the boys again and again. Got a cab to the bus terminal and arrived with 5 minutes to spare only to be welcomed by the posh kids! Oh well, only 16 hours till Iguaçu....
Thursday 28 February 2013
Curitiba
Tuesday 19th - Friday 22nd Feb
So Sao Paulo was good. I'd seen the biggest city in Latin America and ended it with some pretty spectacular Brazilian cuisine.
But now I was destined to move on, and I didn't fancy a 13 hour bus straight to Florianopolis, so as I have so long I thought - 'Curitiba?'
Not many people visit Curitiba, well tourists don't but old women do who take their dogs on 7 hour bus journeys (who does that?!) and I for one would urge anyone to go. I arrived at about 6pm and got a cab immidiately to the hostel. I was staying at the cheapest hostel in Curitiba according to hostelworld (by the way, THE greatest and most handy website I've ever used): Backpakers Hostel Curitiba. It's a 10 minute walk from the historical centre and didn't take me long to love it. I was staying in a 6-bed dorm to myself, with a balcony and I could get full wifi lying in my bed - hostels like that don't come around often! Oh and they had a pet cat that was absolutely badass.
I didn't do much that night. I made dinner and ventured to a rock n roll bar called Bop n Roll that offered a range of quality beers, played extreme sports on the tv and above all played Creedance Clearwater Revival all night! I targeted to see as much as possible the next day. I had read in my book that Curitiba offered the 'best' city tour in south america, so I was bloody well gonna do that wasn't I? And there wasnt anything gonna stop me (as you'll soon learn...)
I started the tour at 11 (after the worst breakfast I've had in a long time) and thought it was pretty sublime very quickly. Curitiba is a very clean city (for South American standards it's increible). It was like being in California. However it didn't quite live up to it's 'most environmentally friendly city in Latin America' title, as - with everywhere else in South America - everyone used plastic bags! The plastic bag business is raking it over here!
So yes, the tour. It starts at a church that looks like a cake (seriously) and it takes you through the colourful streets until it eventually goes out of the city on it's 44km journey. For that distance, I wasn't complaining about the £9 fee. I got off at the Botanical gardens (as with everywhere, free) and had a nice little walk around. It's really nice there and you get some great views of the city. I hung around for a while, appreciating their intercontinental plant range as well as walking around the large pond. From there, I got back on a different bus (the system works that you pay for 5 journeys, so you can see everywhere and visit 5 of them - which is more than enough) and got back off at the zoo/Islamic area (free). I didn't know if I'd made a mistake there, but a lot of the arcitecture was really interesting and I had some fun laughing at the crazy parrots and turtles. I wondered why I actually got off at that stop, maybe I felt that the whole Arabic feel kinda reminded me of London and I'd got a little fed up of the whole GOD IS AMAZING LOOK AT THIS CHURCH message that is stamped across all of Brazil. The next stop is why you should come to Curitiba: Tangua Park. I didn't spend a penny there and it was as beautiful as any park I've ever visited. They had a waterfall there and a cute wooden cafe that sat at the mouth of it. I walked around the park for a while and realised that maybe I was getting a little lonely as I was actually talking to myself and taking pictures just pulling funny faces...
Oh and for the runners, if you're in Southern Brazil I'd say Curitiba is your best bet for some quality runs, the parks are grand and the weather was really good when I was there.
As I had only 5 journeys on my ticket I made that my final stop as I got back on the bus and took snaps of the remaining places. It actually pissed it down for the remainder of the tour (then it stopped totally) but I refused to get down from the from and got drenched in the process! I decided that tomorrow I'd use my final journey on a visit to the oi! tower to see the whole city, which i did the next day.
I'd been put in contact with someone that lived in Curitiba from Ross (who I stayed with in SP) and she'd told me about an international students party that was pretty close to my hostel, so I attended that and it was probably the first event of my travels that you could say 'changed' my mentality. I went there alone and met so many people, mainly a French history of art student (I know!) and a gay brazilian banker. I was chatting away with them for hours until the end where I met the best person I've met all my trip - Gasper.
Gasper was born in Brazil, moved to Tasmania and then to Scotland, back to Brazil, back to Scotland and now is back in Curitiba so arguably has the weirdest accent ever. But he invited me out the next night and made me feel very welcome - Curitiba had the student life that I hadn't seen anywhere else (and no Ozzies or Brits!).
The next day I didn't achieve as much as I had done the day before, as I got lost and ended up walking about 6km to the open opera house and got the bus to the oi! tower. Oi! is the big telecom company here and it's how Brazilians say hi. I have to remember to not say that when I'm back home!
Although the view was good, it was R$3.50 and the view in SP was free, so I was a little pissed off but hey. I walked back to the hostel and it was early evening so I went on a run to the Oscar Neyamaar (appreciating art and history in your Essex running vest and shortest shorts as you do) and then continued my run in to the city - until I got lost, exhausted and kinda dehydrated!
I returned, hung out with the cat for a bit and had schedualed to go to Gasper's at half ten, and I decided that tonight would be my last night... And that I'd get a bus at 5am!! So I got everything ready and headed to Gasper's.
The night was really good, we were all playing drinking games and in all there were probably 15 languages around the table! All were either students or doing some kind of volunteering over in Curitiba, so there was a nice vibe from everyone. Gasper says the gaybars are the best in Curitiba so after out second visit we were in the gaybar and partied it up with Curitiba's proudest men and women. I was enjoying it so much that I looked at my watch to see it was 4am so I rushed off, taxi to hostel, bags, taxi to bus station - 4.40am. Booked the bus and ate my apple as I was still drunk.
It's a 6 hour journey with some nice views that I didn't totally get to appreciate due to my 'mad one'.
Impression of Curitiba - go there! I think it's a wonderful place and if you're backpaking then don't skip it. Even if you're there for just one night I think you'd have a soft spot for the place :)
Wednesday 20 February 2013
Sao Paulo
Friday 15th - Monday 18th
I arrived in Sao Paulo at about 7am on a bus that consisted of myself and two other sleepers. I slept the whole 500km. I got the metro from the bus station (again R$3 and again, wider and cooler than tfl). After a bit of confusion I found the place I was staying, dropped my bags and had a very British breakfast for Sao Paulo.
I stayed the whole time in Sao Paulo with one of my mum's friends, Caroline, whose lived in SP longer than I've lived my life and has a 25 year old son, Ross. Ah yes -my breakfast - every day I had PG tips tea, kellog's corn flakes and 2 slices of toast with marmite on it - tear drop for nostalgia.
Anway, you're not interested in that (I don't even know if you're interested at all really). I got the metro in to town with Ross as I was heading to the tourist centre (for a map) on Paulista, the heart of SP's business - the Wall Street of South America. Ross works in TV so doesn't have to wear a suit like his neighbours.
After getting a map I enjoyed a walk around Paulista and when I needed the toilet I found a Starbucks and wanted to leave my mark - got some evil glares as I strolled past to the toilets only for the toilets to be shut and then to walk straight in to a glass door on my way out! (karma?)
There's a building in Sao Paulo that is free to visit and gives an incredible view of the city and answered my question of 'how big is Sao Paulo?' with 'oh my God'. It was a 2 hours in-and-out wait and I realised just how tired I was when I managed to fall asleep standing up in the queue and jolted forward! The view was increible, it probably would've been better if a storm didn't start 3 mins before we went up and didn't have to look through glass but oh well. The city is enourmous, in area and in height. I think it's taller than New York, it looks like a city that was built for the Gods and on my last day I realised that it was also filled with some amazing architecture, in design rather than size.
I took my standing nap as a hint I was pooped, and so got the metro back (packed!) and crashed out on my bed for a few hours! When I awoke we were joined by Ross' friend Jacob, a Brazilian he'd known for ten years who we'd be hanging out with tonight. We drove to a region of SP that was filled with bars and where I learnt from them Sao Paul'en(?) phrases, they learnt hotspice. I've made it my goal here to teach everyone the word hotspice, it was loved in Rio and I think Ross and Jacobe liked it too!
We ended up at a Rock and Roll bar called Morrison, name after the late great Jim Morrison (the lead singer of The Doors for all you sinners that didn't know!!) and I had a great night watching a Stones and Doors tribute band play. Who knew Jagger could speak fluent Portugese?
We got in about 4 as Jacob drove us home and continued driving on home for another hour, long night without a drop of alcohol! I was beginning to think I'd like Sao Paulo.
The next day I thought I'd be a bit more cultural and seeing that the MASP was right on my doorstep (oh you don't know? It's only the largest art gallery in the southern hemisphere darling) which was really good actually, there were some very prestigious works there (a lot of Raphael) and I was unfortunate to miss the Vermeer exhibition by just a few days. After lunch, Ross drove me to the Football museum which is at the main stadium in SP, and that was actually so good (despite being stopped in the carpark by the 'cardboard offials' who charged R$16 to park, I think Ross would've found a smashed window if he didn't pay) and I'm glad we did it, you can really see why the Brazilians are so honoured to support their team. We were met at the stadiums bar by Jacob and Larissa (his girlfrend) and after a drink we headed to the Hyde Park of SP. Again I had a really good time, there's some really cool things there (sorry i've forgotten the name of it) such as the performance theatre with the reverse stage that can perform outside as well as in! For those that don't know, SP has a reputation for it's food. It's deemed to be so good that even the Italians are jealous of SP's Italian food! This is due to the large amount of Italian and Japanese immigrants that have come over time and it just so happened some of them were michelin star chefs. Therefore that night I was treated to a pizza dinner with Ross, Jacob and Larissa (I really was being spoilt) and the food was great, although I think that maybe they were upset when I said that my pizza from Naples topped it...
On Sunday it was the big derby: Corinthians x Palmares. It was a great game, it ended 2-2 and unfortunately Corinthians didn't clinch it in the final minute with a bicycle kick from Romarinho (watch this space). After a few games of FIFA Ross took me to a cocktail bar - voted to do the best Capirinhas (Brazil's traditional cocktail) in SP, and I enjoyed one with pepper and the other I preferred with red fruits - there's something about spicy cocktails that's maybe too much for me. I guess I'm not a hotspice. Ross then showed me around the area where youth drunkards go on weekends to party on the streets (think 'flats' but in the centre of a city and with hundreds more people) but as it was Sunday homework was due and the street only offered hookers. The night ended with laughing at an air guitarist on the metro and a few games of FIFA - I think Ross and I had found something we truly bonded over.
Monday was my final full day in the city and I wanted to do the walk I planned to do on Friday if it wasn't for that 2hr wait. The walk was great, I saw so much of the city and even though almost everything was shut, I still got the vibes from the city that explained why they had to build a new city in order to make the capital of Brazil. Just like in Australia, the two main cities were so impressive and grand (yet so different) that a city was built merely to have a capital, Brasillia. Oh and you gotta see the German designed Cathedral! It's surreal! The walk lasted all day and it ended with a storm! It rained so hard and I saw the woman next to me get hit by a bin (LOL!) as the winds were so strong. I was drenched and when I got back I found a tree had landed on Ross' car!! It was nothing though, when we managed to get it off we found there wasn't even a scratch.
That night I was treated to a traditional 'set price' Brazillian dinner with Caroline and Ross, where I had some of the best meat i've had in months and was filled to the brim - it was the right send off to yet another incredible city. Of course the night ended with a last few games of FIFA with Ross!
I got the 10am bus the next day as I waved goodbye to Sao Paulo.
So what were my impressions? I don't understand why more people don't come here. Sao Paulo is an attractive dynamic, fast moving city that offers a night life that could rival Rio (obviously it didn't cos I was there for Carnaval but that's not fair).
The weather? Hot, not as unbearable as Rio. Unfortunately there'd been storms since Christmas, so every evening consisted of some showers.
But yes, two great cities for the start of my 150 days, and I just hope that the rest of the continent can live up to them!
I arrived in Sao Paulo at about 7am on a bus that consisted of myself and two other sleepers. I slept the whole 500km. I got the metro from the bus station (again R$3 and again, wider and cooler than tfl). After a bit of confusion I found the place I was staying, dropped my bags and had a very British breakfast for Sao Paulo.
I stayed the whole time in Sao Paulo with one of my mum's friends, Caroline, whose lived in SP longer than I've lived my life and has a 25 year old son, Ross. Ah yes -my breakfast - every day I had PG tips tea, kellog's corn flakes and 2 slices of toast with marmite on it - tear drop for nostalgia.
Anway, you're not interested in that (I don't even know if you're interested at all really). I got the metro in to town with Ross as I was heading to the tourist centre (for a map) on Paulista, the heart of SP's business - the Wall Street of South America. Ross works in TV so doesn't have to wear a suit like his neighbours.
After getting a map I enjoyed a walk around Paulista and when I needed the toilet I found a Starbucks and wanted to leave my mark - got some evil glares as I strolled past to the toilets only for the toilets to be shut and then to walk straight in to a glass door on my way out! (karma?)
There's a building in Sao Paulo that is free to visit and gives an incredible view of the city and answered my question of 'how big is Sao Paulo?' with 'oh my God'. It was a 2 hours in-and-out wait and I realised just how tired I was when I managed to fall asleep standing up in the queue and jolted forward! The view was increible, it probably would've been better if a storm didn't start 3 mins before we went up and didn't have to look through glass but oh well. The city is enourmous, in area and in height. I think it's taller than New York, it looks like a city that was built for the Gods and on my last day I realised that it was also filled with some amazing architecture, in design rather than size.
I took my standing nap as a hint I was pooped, and so got the metro back (packed!) and crashed out on my bed for a few hours! When I awoke we were joined by Ross' friend Jacob, a Brazilian he'd known for ten years who we'd be hanging out with tonight. We drove to a region of SP that was filled with bars and where I learnt from them Sao Paul'en(?) phrases, they learnt hotspice. I've made it my goal here to teach everyone the word hotspice, it was loved in Rio and I think Ross and Jacobe liked it too!
We ended up at a Rock and Roll bar called Morrison, name after the late great Jim Morrison (the lead singer of The Doors for all you sinners that didn't know!!) and I had a great night watching a Stones and Doors tribute band play. Who knew Jagger could speak fluent Portugese?
We got in about 4 as Jacob drove us home and continued driving on home for another hour, long night without a drop of alcohol! I was beginning to think I'd like Sao Paulo.
The next day I thought I'd be a bit more cultural and seeing that the MASP was right on my doorstep (oh you don't know? It's only the largest art gallery in the southern hemisphere darling) which was really good actually, there were some very prestigious works there (a lot of Raphael) and I was unfortunate to miss the Vermeer exhibition by just a few days. After lunch, Ross drove me to the Football museum which is at the main stadium in SP, and that was actually so good (despite being stopped in the carpark by the 'cardboard offials' who charged R$16 to park, I think Ross would've found a smashed window if he didn't pay) and I'm glad we did it, you can really see why the Brazilians are so honoured to support their team. We were met at the stadiums bar by Jacob and Larissa (his girlfrend) and after a drink we headed to the Hyde Park of SP. Again I had a really good time, there's some really cool things there (sorry i've forgotten the name of it) such as the performance theatre with the reverse stage that can perform outside as well as in! For those that don't know, SP has a reputation for it's food. It's deemed to be so good that even the Italians are jealous of SP's Italian food! This is due to the large amount of Italian and Japanese immigrants that have come over time and it just so happened some of them were michelin star chefs. Therefore that night I was treated to a pizza dinner with Ross, Jacob and Larissa (I really was being spoilt) and the food was great, although I think that maybe they were upset when I said that my pizza from Naples topped it...
On Sunday it was the big derby: Corinthians x Palmares. It was a great game, it ended 2-2 and unfortunately Corinthians didn't clinch it in the final minute with a bicycle kick from Romarinho (watch this space). After a few games of FIFA Ross took me to a cocktail bar - voted to do the best Capirinhas (Brazil's traditional cocktail) in SP, and I enjoyed one with pepper and the other I preferred with red fruits - there's something about spicy cocktails that's maybe too much for me. I guess I'm not a hotspice. Ross then showed me around the area where youth drunkards go on weekends to party on the streets (think 'flats' but in the centre of a city and with hundreds more people) but as it was Sunday homework was due and the street only offered hookers. The night ended with laughing at an air guitarist on the metro and a few games of FIFA - I think Ross and I had found something we truly bonded over.
Monday was my final full day in the city and I wanted to do the walk I planned to do on Friday if it wasn't for that 2hr wait. The walk was great, I saw so much of the city and even though almost everything was shut, I still got the vibes from the city that explained why they had to build a new city in order to make the capital of Brazil. Just like in Australia, the two main cities were so impressive and grand (yet so different) that a city was built merely to have a capital, Brasillia. Oh and you gotta see the German designed Cathedral! It's surreal! The walk lasted all day and it ended with a storm! It rained so hard and I saw the woman next to me get hit by a bin (LOL!) as the winds were so strong. I was drenched and when I got back I found a tree had landed on Ross' car!! It was nothing though, when we managed to get it off we found there wasn't even a scratch.
That night I was treated to a traditional 'set price' Brazillian dinner with Caroline and Ross, where I had some of the best meat i've had in months and was filled to the brim - it was the right send off to yet another incredible city. Of course the night ended with a last few games of FIFA with Ross!
I got the 10am bus the next day as I waved goodbye to Sao Paulo.
So what were my impressions? I don't understand why more people don't come here. Sao Paulo is an attractive dynamic, fast moving city that offers a night life that could rival Rio (obviously it didn't cos I was there for Carnaval but that's not fair).
The weather? Hot, not as unbearable as Rio. Unfortunately there'd been storms since Christmas, so every evening consisted of some showers.
But yes, two great cities for the start of my 150 days, and I just hope that the rest of the continent can live up to them!
Tuesday 19 February 2013
The end of my time in Rio
Monday 11th - Thursday 14th Feb
This will be another long post guys and gals, I gotta catch up time somehow. I'm typing this up on my iTouch on a bus to Curitiba so bare with me...
So yes, I got in very late from Sambodromo. We walked back (me and my mum!) through the streets of Rio in the early hours of Monday morning but of course the party was still as strong as ever. I hadn't actually got a place to stay last night as I thought I'd save myself a pointless R$150 (4x the standard rate) but I ended up crashing out on a bed anyway aha.
I was woken up by Jens who had just got in (mad one) after having breakfast with my mum, so as I felt okay I had breakfast with mum also and suggested that we walked to Copacobana (I like the beach, okay?!) because it was such a lovely day. If anyone is in Rio with their girlfriend and the weather is nice then I suggest doing this walk, the roads were empty (because of Carnaval) and we walked along the waterfront front for a few miles chatting away until we arrived at Copacobana beach. It was a really good walk and had a relatively cheap lunch on the beach - I say cheap as you should bare in mind they were collossal portions and the location alone should increase the prices - I think it was under £20 for the two of us. We found the haviannas flagship store (overrated) and got the metro back. The metro is an amazing place during carnaval, people have bags of beer and their singing and dancing and having a real party on it. You could easily spend the day on the metro if that was your thang. I like non-regurgetated oxygen, personally. For runners: it's like an indoor track. I'd been invited out by UCL Sophie and Soccer Seb so I was off for dinner with ma and would go out after. There's a big thing for 'per kilo' restaurants here. There's a set kilo price and you pay for however heavy your plate is - so if you like prawns I guess this is the place, but I got a stupidly large portion (a whole kilo!) and if you do it right, this is a really good place to eat, it was in fact recommended in my tour guide and was 2 blocks from the hostel.
The night was divided I guess. Just to prepare you, from now on my carnaval is kind of over. It ends really on the Sunday, but that's no excuse for my nights for the rest of the week. So we headed off to Copocobana beach for what we thought would be one of the blocos - but it was empty. So we ended up sitting around chatting on the beach front for an hour or so before me and Jens suggested 'Lapa?' The girls went back to the hostel and it was a lads trip to laps consisting of Jens, Sebastian and myself. The atmosphere was again booming and I think the boys fancied their chances with a señorita, I was feeling a little tired so I would wander around and watch them work instead... Lol. It was funny because it just seemed like everyone told them to do one. But in all it was still a good night and the highlight was sitting at the bottom of the lapa steps and just watching these thousands of people amass and get drunk together. I think the lapa steps is also full of pimps and hookers also so we didn't venture up them. Late night, 4/5am.
For the first time in my time here I slept past breakfast. I slept in to the afternoon even! Mum had done a whole fervela tour by the time I got up. I had told her how I now could locate the Lapa steps (and I actually wanted to see it when there weren't thousands of drunkards among them) so as everyone was asleep we left. It was a nice walk and again the temperature was ever increasing. We went via the bloco and were eventually in Lapa which was still, surprisingly, booming. The Lapa steps are incredible and cannot understand at all why they're not on the tourist map. There's so much colour, culture, story, emotion and feeling connected with this work of art created by someone just because he wanted to give something back to Rio. Mum got some good snaps so maybe I'll be able to show some pictures at some stage. We had lunch at a bar which was again enourmous and headed back as it was the evening. I ended up sitting as the desk of the hostel that night for a few hours, giving and taking dorm keys, taking people to their rooms and generally just coming across like I worked there, it was all good fun - especially when two Chilliean brothers were given 30% discount for a room without beds!!!
Mum and I stayed in to cook ourselves which was totally scrumptious (steak and mash). We'd been told there was a big bloco down at Copocobana tonight so we all headed down there - there wasn't. We found a beach hut and drank there for a bit and when I was offered back to the hotel of an old Brazilian drunkard we headed back to flamengo (where there was apparently yet another bloco). There again wasn't and we ended up just hanging out on the beach and fancied a swim that got me unwell for the next couple of days... Late night for something not amazing.
I'm gonna tell you now the next two days were pretty crappy. I had a bit of a bug so hung around the hostel and attempted to sort out some boring stuff like planning hostels, buses, ucl accomodation etc. So I'll just tell you about Wednesday and Thursday nights. It was all our last night in Rio on Wednesday bar Cindy and Luciana (who works here) so we did as we've done so many times before: we chipped in R$15 each and got a lot of beer and played drinking games and said how sad we all were to depart. On Thursday night I was getting the bus to Sao Paulo, so Luciana took me and Jens to a place to book our buses - I got a 6hr night bus for R$80 and Jens (who was setting off to Salvador) got 25hr bus for nearly R$300!! That night was very nice and it was the farewell I think Rio deserved. Jens, Luciana, Cindy and myself got the metro to Ipanema (somewhere I should've gone a few times as it is an amazing beach) and watched the sunset together until some idiot gringos applauded when the sun set - who on earth were they applauding, God? The earth's rotation? Pf, gringos. I got a cab to the bus station at midnight and got a coach to Sao Paulo with 3 people on my bus.
Rio is an incredible place and will probably always have a place in my heart. There is a vibe from Rio that I've not got anywhere else - it's the location, the people, the culture - everything! I look forward to July for my return flight from Rio (and I can actually visit Christ and Sugarloaf!)
Rio, you're amazing.
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